VINTAGE 40 ' S 50 ' S CARTIER CHRONOGRAPH WATCH RUNS BUT FOR REPAIR EXU IMPORT CODE
Item History & Price
| Reference Number: Avaluer:538787 | Gender: Men's |
| Age Group: Adult | Case Material: Steel |
| Brand: Cartier | Chronograph Type: Chronograph |
| Style: Vintage | Band Color: Black |
| Dial Style: Multi Dial |
Great find of a Cartier 3 register square pusher 12hr chronograph, with striking blue and gold hands. Case diameter is 35mm without winding crown.There is no serial number on the movement, only "UN 285" etched on a bridge, which I always equated with Universal Geneve (see photo # 8). Without a serial number or factory marking it was hard to track down. I was showing the the watch to a jeweler friend of mine he pointed out the "EXU" which is a specific U.S. import code indicating ...the manufacturer. I found a copy of Kathleen H Pritchards book "Swiss timepiece Makers 1775-1975" and was pleasantly surprised to the see the code indicated "European Watch & Clock Co. Cartier" (see photos #10 & #11) The movement still may be a generic Universal Geneve 285- but I can't for sure.It is very much a vintage item, stylistically its just post WWII or early mid 50's. Watch runs and keeps great time with a very large power reserve. I've run it overnight with the stopwatch running and it does not wind the spring down. The flyback second hand and the watch inner sub dial second hand (at 9 0'clock) work excellent. The flyback resets to zero, The 30 min and 12 hour sub dials do not advance (occasionally the 12 hour sub dial will advance but resets in the wrong spot). The lower reset pusher is a little lazy/ sticky.There is a personalization on the back of the case, this watch was likely meant as a gift or purchased for a special occasion. There is a scratch or defect in the dial that looks like a crack in the crystal but it is not. This watch needs a full reconditioning for the 12 hour timer to work. So it is being sold ''AS-IS'' and for REPAIR- I've had the watch for over a decade and am just now letting it go for a low opening bid and no reserve. I purchased this with a large lot of watches left over and never picked up after a repair estimate was given. The shop closed down in the mid to late 70's. Please know that its available internationally, however and all VATs import duties taxes or tariffs are the sole responsibly of the the buyer- U.S. shipping of course is no problem.
