WWII D. F. 10X80 Dkl Schneider Kreuznach FLAK Binoculars German Partially Cleaned




Item History & Price

Information:
Reference Number: Avaluer:50004389Featured Refinements: WW2 Binoculars
Original Description:
WWII D.F. 10X80 dkl Schneider Kreuznach FLAK Binoculars German Vtg 

 There are 147 photos of the item below.

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UPDATE: I've found that these are not properly collimated, looking at the moon there is a noticeable separation between the two lens views, I haven't had this out in the field to do extensive testing and didn't notice this in the n...ear field but wanted to point it out that it will need to be collimated.

---  There are numerous condition details so be sure to completely read the description.  I got these from someone I know that had put them on ebay but the buyer didn't follow through and he knew I had wanted them so I we worked out a trade.  When I first got them there was internal fungus and dust coating inside/outside the optics (they still produced a big view but with obvious haze etc).  I also noticed two small glass nicks on the right eyepiece and I noticed the right eyepiece internal reticule was at an angle. I noticed a small nick on the outside of the right objective near the edge area, and I can see after cleaning what looks like coating artifacts around the edges of the objectives, and also I can see numerous coating spots on the objectives (I notice more on the left objective interior side, however I am not sure if any of the optics are actually coated, the spots may just be residue left by dust spotting and simply requires a stronger cleaning solution, I used only mild lens cleaner).   
--- I spent a few evenings carefully taking them apart and cleaning mainly just the optics, (I left the lube for the lateral eyepiece position adjustment alone, did my best to avoid any baffling paint). For optical cleaning I just used a microfiber cloth and lens cleaner, no solvents etc.  I didn't open up the eyepieces, There is a little internal haze but not too problematic (update, I think the right side eyepiece with the reticule has a little haze, also, that reticule is simply a clear glass engraved or marked plate under a retaining ring, my guess is there is some dust etc under that glass plate).  The main issue was the fungus I could see on the prisms and internal dust behind the objectives and on the filters.  
--- Both prisms have fungus on the prism surfaces resting on their metal housing.  I don't get the impression they are baffled surfaces, I can see for example the color of the prism housing through the prism base.  Those surfaces not open to air with fungus reflect the fungus pattern into the view.  I could have simply removed the prisms and cleaned them but I was worried about collimation adjustments.  I didn't want to ruin the collimation and be left with something un-useable so decided to leave it alone and reassemble and see how it looked (update: I was just reading an article about a disassembly and cleaning, there was no mention of collimation adjustments for the prism housing frames, so I may go back in and clean off that fungus after all, I will end the listing and re-list if I do anything). Huge internal view field, essentially clear sharp image but later I did detect probable signs of light haze or potential not full sharp clarity, I saw this also to protect myself, but still to me a great pair of binoculars even as they are), I've had high quality binoculars such as fujinon's and leitz , so I know what is possible in terms of image clarity and sharpness,   

--- In the photos below you can see the internal parts, the disassembled parts, you can see the prisms, the fungus, basically everything I saw.  I did notice what I would call coating spots on the cleaned optical surfaces, mainly on the prism faces and the front objectives, it's faint and what I would consider transparent but it is what it is, if you inspect the glass you can find it (as noted above I am not sure the optics are coated, so these spots might just be residue that requires further cleaning).  I cleaned both sides of each of the 4 filters on each side.  I may have left a few smudges or streaks, I remember there being some small specs or spots that didn't clean off but not in general (the filters I would consider to be in good condition, I didn't see any issues that you sometimes see on filters where the coatings get damaged, maybe not perfect but any defects would be small).   

--- I had just finished re-assembly last night and set them up on a tripod and tried to take some photos through the eyepieces, it was hard to do and I didn't get what I thought were representative results in my photos, the actual view is big and essentially sharp and clear.  I did though notice that I could I think detect a combination of what is some eyepiece haze and the prism fungus, the view field through the eyepieces is so big you feel like you can look up and down at the viewable image, I think at some angles in different light I can detect some haze, maybe more on the right eyepiece side, or just in certain areas. 
--- I think the right eyepiece is missing a set screw, the internal reticule is at an angle if the eyepiece is threaded all the way on (which is necessary in order to adjust the eyepiece focus barrel), there are 3 screws around that eyepiece socket on the right side but they don't seem to do anything, they don't extend into the socket and seem to just turn without getting tight, maybe they are stripped).  In any case it's an issue because seeing the reticule at an angle is distracting, so that would need to be addressed (update: from the referenced article, the eyepieces are supposed to simply unthread, so I'm not sure about set screws, however the left eyepiece does have a set screw that I see has caused some edge flattening or scraping to an area of the threads, it's possible in the model referenced in the article I read that no set screws were employed, I'm not sure, but in that article as noted above the reticule is on a glass disc, so it's orientation would be a matter of simply loosening the retaining ring and rotating)
--- I noticed those 4 round top slot screws on the face of the right eyepiece housing don't see to do anything, they thread in and tighten but I don't see anything behind them, so their function is a mystery).

--- I still haven't fully decided if I am going to sell these.  I wouldn't have cleaned these if I had just intended on selling them outright.  They are just such an impressive pair of binoculars, that view field is hard to describe.  My main issue is that I don't have a view to enjoy, I've thought about trying them for night sky viewing, So without a clear daily purpose I would consider selling these, I probably over value them, I had a pair years ago in the original case with longer hood tubes so I'm sort of familiar with the market.  I have cameras and lenses that I don't need or use that I don't want to sell, I just appreciate historical optics.

--- As you can see the plastic knob that turns the eyepiece separation position is mostly broken off but the underlying knob post assembly is not affected and it operates normally.  
--- Obviously the head rest is missing.  I noticed underneath the left objective housing there is a missing screw (although the ones on the top of both don't seem to do anything I could see during dis-assembly).  Notice how the right objective barrel looks more like bare metal as compared to the left barrel, like the coating is missing.  
--- I was and am intent on leaving these in original external condition so I was careful cleaning the exterior not to inadvertently remove paint (but any cleaning is going to take some paint off but some areas that seemed more soiled or stubborn I just left it alone).  You can see the eyepiece barrel tops have rust.  There is rust on the bottom mount plate (I was able to thread a 1/4" standard tripod quick release plate into that center open mount hole).  There is rust on some bolts and screws.  There was and is some rust on the two front retaining rings on each front objective (the rings on the left side had to be removed to dis-assemble the left eyepiece/prism assembly).  The baffling around the left objective edges has come off (some still is present, that objective had to come out to access the mount screws at the base of that tube, so you can see the side baffling area is bare metal where that lens sits, some though or originally it had the edge of that objective painted or coated with baffle).

--- The surfaces that rest against a prism face have fungus on that side and hence show fungus in prism reflections.  For example. the base of the prism rests on the inside face of the housing holding the eyepiece, there is an opening for the eyepiece to view through the prism base, the parts of the prism base resting against the housing have fungus (the part of the prism base over the eyepiece opening in the housing is clear), and that part of the base that has fungus does not appear to be a baffled or mirrored surface, you can just see the color of the paint on the inside of the housing that the prism base is resting against.   As with the front objectives, there are also some coating spots on prism surfaces (which may not be coating spots after all but simply residue from the dust spotting over time)

---- In the photos below I show the binoculars disassembled or as far as I took it.  I show the stages of re-assembly.  To take them apart, you remove the right front objective housing (as a rule you should note EXACTLY what bolt went into which socket, there are different sizes, with some assemblies have unexpected differences, so keep track of each bolt and try to re-insert into the socket it came out of or have a method to know what goes where).  Next step is to remove the 4 bolts holding the right eyepiece/prism housing in place, these are down the barrel of the right objective.  That prism housing can be opened up in an obvious way.  Next you have to remove the front left objective lens element in order to access the mount holes for the left eyepiece/prism housing, it's different than the right side because it is a moving section.  There are two retaining rings on the front of the left element, I was able to simply use my fingernails to manually turn these off (without a spanner wrench), I also did my best not to over tighten when I put it back together.  After removing that lens element there are 6 bolts in the bottom of that barrel which removes the barrel and disconnects it from the prism housing.  The next step requires removing a stop plate at the lower right corner of the main body housing, once that is removed you can slide the entire left eyepiece/prism housing off the RIGHT hand side of the body.  I may have overlooked a small step but that is the general process.  I had a lot of trouble with that stop plate on the lower right, 2 of the 3 bolts would not loosen even after repeated applications of liquid wrench, I even had to talk to some mechanic friends about it, what I eventually noticed (before I forget notice the tool marks and wear to the slots on those bolts from my attempts to turn), I eventually noticed that stop plate was not perfectly aligned with the body, it hung over the edge by a tiny tiny amount, I tapped it gently with a hammer and the two bolts came out easily.  When I put that plate back on I put in the two bolts that were hard to remove first, they went right in, I then found that first bolt I took out harder to thread in, so I think the original mfg tolerance might be slightly off there for the hole placement on that plate, I was carefully not to over tighten, I mention it in case you encounter it.

--- When putting things back together I made some tool marks in the inside baffling for the two barrel mounts at the base (nothing major even noticeable really, but in case you notice, it was me. 

--- Anyway, that's my best general honest description.  This example is not going to be for everybody, I may end up just keeping these, that huge field of view is really something.

--- See photos for condition details. 

--- Will be well packed

--- See shipping options above
--- Payment expected within 3 days of purchase (contact me if you need more time). 
--- The item description is guaranteed to be accurate but all items are sold as-is unless otherwise stated.
--- I don't have a way to arrange for a local pick-up of this item, I'm sorry for the inconvenience





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